He rides the waves upon a swell;
His inner fear he seeks to quell.
     This man on waves is riding high
     Beneath a glorious azure sky.

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Gulls wheel and dive above his head.
Below his feet, the ocean bed
     Awaits poor souls the cruel sea takes,
     Not caring if they’ve made mistakes.

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No time to gasp or catch your breath
When you decide to dice with death.
      But this brave man has inner strength
      And surfs the swell for its full length.

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Then down he glides and swiftly turns.
Assurance in his brain now burns!
    He’ll beat the elements with ease 
    And master these presumptuous seas!

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As man and board both turn and twist,
All thoughts of fear are soon dismissed.
     He demonstrates his skill and speed,
     Appeasing a devouring need.

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With fervour filling heart and soul,
His heart’s set on that final goal.
     A six foot wave he rides with grace,
     Sea water spraying on his face. 

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What drives we humans to risk all
When inner urges loudly call?
      It’s mental power, vigour and speed:
     That feeling that we must succeed;

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It’s combatting a fearful force -
And keeping steadfast on one’s course.
     Ah yes, here is another thought:
     It’s all done in the name of 'sport'.

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Copyright on all my poems

 

 

 

 

 

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